reLAKSation 311. Callander McDowell
Jumping on the bandwagon: The market hype surrounding basa and tilapia continues to dominate the fish farming press. If one is to believe everything that is written about these two species, then they are likely to conquer the retail market in years to come. FishfarmingXpert reports that Karen Galloway of Seafish is the latest marketing professional to suggest that basa and tilapia could become contenders in the British retail seafood market. Ms Galloway bases this supposition on the fact that there has been a huge influx of migrants from Poland now living in the UK. According to the Guardian, Polish people account for 1.4% of the population with the figure rising to about 4% in major cities. Poles, in common with other Eastern Europeans, have a tradition of eating freshwater fish and therefore Ms Galloway assumes that they will be keen on eating freshwater basa and tilapia too. She says that these fish have a relatively neutral flavour similar to species commonly eaten in Eastern Europe. As they also offer good value for money, they could have real impact on the UK market.
Karen Galloway is a respected authority on fish marketing in the UK but we, at Callander McDowell, are not so sure that there is this correlation between the rise in Eastern European migrant workers and changes in pattern of UK fish consumption. There is no doubt that there is a huge increase in the numbers of Poles living in British cities. There are cars with Polish number plates everywhere one looks and in certain areas there are now numerous specialist Polish shops supplying imported food. Even Tesco now has a section of Polish food. However, Tesco fish counters still stock a more traditional range of fish as demanded by the British consumer although Tesco and other supermarkets do stock basa or tilapia. This months’ Asda magazine includes a recipe for tilapia although with a Caribbean theme (see our website).
Whilst Tesco tries to provide the needs of their Polish customers, those in need of the full Polish experience tend to visit their specialist outlets for their food shop and in just the same way, these customers will seek out specialist fishmongers to supply their local preferences. Whilst the UK imports basa from Vietnam and tilapia from Jamaica, specialist suppliers can equally import freshwater species from Europe. Why would Polish consumers who want to eat freshwater species choose tilapia and basa when they can already buy fish like carp, bream and pike from their local fishmonger? This week freshwater bream were readily available from our local market selling at £3.50/kg.
Even up-market Waitrose sells fresh carp at £6.99/kg when it is available, and especially at holiday times when the Eastern European tradition is to eat carp.
Karen Galloway describes basa as having a relatively neutral flavour similar to European freshwater species. We don’t know about bream, because it is not farmed, but carp cannot be described as having a neutral taste. It has very meaty flesh which once cleansed makes excellent eating. Carp is a versatile species in terms of cooking and eating which is why it is has such a long history of being farmed.
Basa and tilapia can be easily sourced in the UK market but, as yet, British consumers have not been persuaded to give them a try. We certainly believe that if these species are to ever take off, it will not be because of the influence of the minority communities living in Britain. The only way to convert consumers to these species is to put them in forms that are familiar to the British consumer at a price they are prepared to pay. Even then, there are no guarantees that they will become accepted as Ms Galloway has suggested.
A load of Pollocks: Julian Pryke of the Fishmonger Ltd has written in his column in Seafood International about Birds Eye’s decision to replace some of its cod fish fingers with Alaskan Pollock. This is a story about which we have previously discussed in reLAKSation but Mr Pryke has re-enforced the point that by not reducing the price of the new fish fingers in line with the lower cost of Alaskan Pollock, Birds Eye commitment to sustainable fishing appears to be outweighed by their accountants’ commitment to sustainable profits. Mr Pryke is the founder of what he claims is a pioneering fishmongers so it is not unexpected that that he asks that Birds Eye does not treat the public like idiots by suggesting that producers of mass frozen seafood products like fishfingers are a force for the good in terms of sustainable fish stocks. We have previously mentioned that Rupert Howes of the Marine Stewardship Council has said that Birds Eye have demonstrated its continued commitment to responsible fishing by cutting back on their use of cod. Mr Pryke says that this is nothing but spin and such feeble marketing can only add to the confusion over the state of fish stocks and hinder those who would like to make an informed choice over what they eat.
Since their announcement to reduce the amount of cod used in fishfingers, Birds Eye have changed the labelling on packs of Alaskan Pollock fish fingers. As can be seen the new packs make no mention of sustainability, the Marine Stewardship Council or Alaskan Pollock (except on the list of ingredients).
Instead, Birds Eye focus in promoting these fish fingers as a source of omega 3 (even though oily fish such as salmon have a much higher omega 3 content). The clear marketing message of this product is to buy these fish fingers (as distinct from those made from cod) because they will help your children rather than on their sustainability or their approval by the Marine Stewardship Council. It seems rather odd that the founding member of the Marine Stewardship Council does not both to endorse the organisation on its own products. If Birds Eye are not prepared to show their commitment to sustainable fish stocks on their own products, then why should any other company? But then the MSC do not list Birds Eye Alaskan Pollock fish fingers in the list of approved sustainable products so maybe Birds Eye do not even use sustainable Alaskan Pollock in their products after all and as Mr Pryke suggests, the whole exercise is nothing but a bit of spin.
How do they do it?: IntraFish reports that the Hebridean Smokehouse is selling its exclusive ultra-premium smoked salmon for £55/kg and despite the high price, sales are rising 20% per annum. IntraFish asks ‘How do they do it?’
Christopher West, General Manager, admits that Hebridean Smokehouse is unable to compete with the larger producers selling fish into the wider marketplace. They have instead opted to target those consumers who still want to buy smoked salmon of the highest possible quality. This is a small niche market and ably served by a small independent smokehouse. They are able to build a story around their smoked salmon and this is why they can command a higher price than most of the smoked salmon sold in the UK. However, the real reason that they can achieve such a high price is that they have little competition in this specialist niche. If several other independent smokehouses opted to target the same market, then they would not have such an easy ride in their quest for customers.
Hebridean Smokehouse sell most of their smoked salmon through mail order and this has helped establish their brand and its specific price point. However IntraFish are misinformed as customers buying the smaller packs are charged just under £60/kg for the peat smoked salmon. Yet, Hebridean Smokehouse is clearly unable to reply on internet sales to grow their business. Last week, they had a stand at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair at London’s Olympia and were actively touting for business from the owners of small gourmet outlets and delicatessens. They even had competition from a couple of other independent smokehouses who were also looking to increase the number of outlets they supply. Interestingly, although the two other smokehouses charge less for their smoked salmon, (although a small 100g pack costs nearly £80/kg) tastings revealed little, if any, noticeable difference between their offerings so whilst Hebridean Smokehouse perceive that their smoked salmon is a super-premium product, it doesn’t actually taste very different.
IntraFish also say that Hebridean Smokehouse smoked salmon can be bought from outlets with a reputation for excellence and luxury such as Fortnum & Mason. Yet, Fortnum’s own brand of wild Scottish smoked salmon sells for over £120/kg making the Hebridean smoked salmon look cheap by comparison. There are consumers who will pay a premium price for their smoked salmon but the problem is that it is a small niche market. Yet even this niche market has spread into the mainstream retailers. At certain times in the year, Marks & Spencer offers their customers the opportunity to buy 100g packs of sells Orkney Heather smoked salmon at £5.99 equating to £59.90/kg which is exactly the same price as that produced by Hebridean Smokehouse. Perhaps it is not so exclusive after all?